By Katherine Kinch / Arts and Entertainment Reporter
Looking back on the spring/summer 2024 fashion season exhibited on runways during September and October of this year, many viewers noticed a common theme: models were increasingly portraying themselves as characters with colorful personalities on the catwalk.
A notable example of this was Colin Jones, whose distinctive walk for Maison Margiela stood out among others as theatrical. Similarly, designer Carlyne Cerf de Didzeele had models such as Adut Akech, Nyawurh Chuol and Maty Fall emphasize the drama of their performance during Moschino’s ss24 collection. Reactions to this shift of energy on the catwalk range from skepticism to overwhelming excitement, causing numerous fans to urge, “fashion is back!”
Viewers may question if the models’ authenticity is reflective of their personality or if it’s being manufactured by designers and curators. Instructors in the industry such as Pat Boguslawski have worked with designers John Galliano and Haider Ackermann on recent shows to train models to present themselves in a more “pure” and “relaxed” manner.
Models themselves–including Mona Toggard, Leon Dame and Alex Consani–are credited with being pioneers for the partial shift of energy in the fashion industry. Often referred to as “booked and busy,” these models are appearing in an impressive number of shows.
The supermodels of the ‘90s were more famously recognized as icons in the fashion industry, since their personal lives were larger than the influence of the job itself. Linda Evangalista, Christy Turlington, Shalom Harlow and Naomi Campbell, for example, were widely considered some of the most acclaimed models of all time.
For that reason, they were sometimes given more creative liberty with their walks and shoots. More personal freedom and room for originality allowed the ‘90s to be a period of peak fashion.
Moschino’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Photo Credit: Arte and Lusso.
Preference in models’ appearances and performances had a monumental shift in the 2000s, which was titled the “Prada Effect.” Miuccia Prada was held accountable for her removal of models’ stardom on the runway in order for the garments to be the focus of her collections.
To accomplish this, Miuccia Prada hired scouts to look for young girls from Eastern European countries who all had homogenous looks. They were white, had slanted noses, sharp jawlines, high cheekbones, and wide faces.
Inspired by supermodels such as Kate Moss and Gia Carangi, the term “heroin chic” was coined in the ‘90s as well and then later criticized for setting unrealistic body standards and romanticizing an extremely thin and emaciated look. Since the opioid crisis and AIDS epidemic were both occurring, it was especially insensitive at the time. The term is still used today, illustrating the influence of the ‘90s look.
Although one person was incapable of being solely responsible for the growing phenomenon of Eastern European beauty, people today often assign Miuccia Prada’s name with its impact on the fashion industry. The “Prada Effect” had lingering impacts on the industry for decades, leaving admirers of the ‘90s supermodels disappointed. This is why the transformation of this season’s energy and diversity on the runway was so celebrated.
The shift in personality being shown this season may be due to designers and fashion marketers who want to capitalize off of trends and viral sensations. Today, designers understand that there is a market for unique displays of character on the runway, and they will prepare models to act outrageously in order to attract attention.
Rob Smith for the Guardian said, “Brands use body positivity as a marketing tactic – but the feelgood messaging rarely impacts how clothing actually gets designed. When you design, everyone works off of a fit model who is a [size small], and that’s their starting point”.
Therefore, the authenticity of brands that are praised for inclusion and diversity should be called into question since marketers and designers could be working in a performative manner.
Despite potential criticisms, this spring/summer season has reflected a culmination of a trend that includes a more broad identity for what it means to be a high-fashion model. From more freedom to express personality to more diverse casts of models, the industry is clearly changing, and it looks as though it’s for the better.
